Post by olyman on Jan 24, 2020 12:49:38 GMT
Doo640ER
To all of you restoration gurus out there, how much paint does it typically take to paint a chassis and pair of skis? Not including the hood. I'm trying to figure out how much I need for my 67 Oly. Is a quart enough? I not trying to make a trailer Queen, just a very nice semi-restored rider.
Thanks, I know literally next to nothing about the different types of paint. RTS, urethane, clear coating, Etc etc etc .
Green and Gold
When using an HVLP gun, single stage product (catalyzed enamel Centari, Omni, Nason, Fleet Farm, Valspar), dark color over a darker (grey/black) primer, I plan on using 21 to 24 oz of unreduced paint for a complete chassis (pan, tunnel, bulkhead) color coat. This assumes two wet coat for coverage. Depending on how well I spray on a particular day, I’ll wind up with a few oz left in the gun. So keep a prepped skis/rear bumper or something around to run out the gun. Or touch up rust spots on the trailer.
One pair of skis, single leaf springs and spindles 5-6 oz unreduced paint.
6 oz for most slide suspensions.
I'd have everything prepped, mix up enough paint to do the chassis and skis, start with the chassis. If you use it all up on the chassis no issues, mix more. Don't want to run out with a partial item done. By that time you'll be able to judge how your coverage is going. Easier to paint the entire chassis and only one ski, stop and remix, then finish the ski portion.
Shot thru an HVLP, reduced 8:2or3:1 using a 1.8 needle/tip. On warmer days (or with the thinner paints--Nason) I'll switch to a 1.4 tip and a 8:4:1 reduction Gun close to target. If you're using single stage and wish to reduce the chances of orange peel (and you don't want to wet sand/polish) use the higher reduction and wait for warmer temps and slower evaporating reducer. Above numbers are for two wet coats. Some yellows/oranges I’ve used recently have required 3 wet coats for coverage. These are for color coat-----primers/primer-surfacers are another matter
After you mixed, catalyzed, reduced and strained your paint, only pour 1/2 of it into the gun at one time. That will help you get a feel for your coverage/usage rates.
No advice for base clear coats---would imagine coverage is different. Probably use a lot more product with a non-HVLP gun also.
Anxiously awaiting paint season here in WI. Redoing a GS1100ES and spent most of yesterday scrapping off a bad metal flake paint job from a front fender (plastic). Paint was clear coated but not really hard. Plugged up 60 grit sand paper so had no resort but to pull out a single blade razor and scrape.
Good Luck
To all of you restoration gurus out there, how much paint does it typically take to paint a chassis and pair of skis? Not including the hood. I'm trying to figure out how much I need for my 67 Oly. Is a quart enough? I not trying to make a trailer Queen, just a very nice semi-restored rider.
Thanks, I know literally next to nothing about the different types of paint. RTS, urethane, clear coating, Etc etc etc .
Green and Gold
When using an HVLP gun, single stage product (catalyzed enamel Centari, Omni, Nason, Fleet Farm, Valspar), dark color over a darker (grey/black) primer, I plan on using 21 to 24 oz of unreduced paint for a complete chassis (pan, tunnel, bulkhead) color coat. This assumes two wet coat for coverage. Depending on how well I spray on a particular day, I’ll wind up with a few oz left in the gun. So keep a prepped skis/rear bumper or something around to run out the gun. Or touch up rust spots on the trailer.
One pair of skis, single leaf springs and spindles 5-6 oz unreduced paint.
6 oz for most slide suspensions.
I'd have everything prepped, mix up enough paint to do the chassis and skis, start with the chassis. If you use it all up on the chassis no issues, mix more. Don't want to run out with a partial item done. By that time you'll be able to judge how your coverage is going. Easier to paint the entire chassis and only one ski, stop and remix, then finish the ski portion.
Shot thru an HVLP, reduced 8:2or3:1 using a 1.8 needle/tip. On warmer days (or with the thinner paints--Nason) I'll switch to a 1.4 tip and a 8:4:1 reduction Gun close to target. If you're using single stage and wish to reduce the chances of orange peel (and you don't want to wet sand/polish) use the higher reduction and wait for warmer temps and slower evaporating reducer. Above numbers are for two wet coats. Some yellows/oranges I’ve used recently have required 3 wet coats for coverage. These are for color coat-----primers/primer-surfacers are another matter
After you mixed, catalyzed, reduced and strained your paint, only pour 1/2 of it into the gun at one time. That will help you get a feel for your coverage/usage rates.
No advice for base clear coats---would imagine coverage is different. Probably use a lot more product with a non-HVLP gun also.
Anxiously awaiting paint season here in WI. Redoing a GS1100ES and spent most of yesterday scrapping off a bad metal flake paint job from a front fender (plastic). Paint was clear coated but not really hard. Plugged up 60 grit sand paper so had no resort but to pull out a single blade razor and scrape.
Good Luck