Post by dando127 on Nov 12, 2021 7:59:41 GMT
oly_man
I have a set of drive axles that need the sprockets changed on them. DO I have to take the gearbox off/apart to let things free down there? Or would I get away with just loosening the chain, and dropping the tracks from the rear? Never dealt with one of these tanks before.
This one has the forward/reverse with a triple chain inside.
skidooguy1951
hi for your tank
drop the track and bogies
loosen your chain at the eccentric
remove the seals
remove the end cap bolts then the caps
the shaft should come out because it slips into the gear
good luck
Gaston
oly_man
Thank you. That's great to know.
I looked at it again last night and took the belt off. After loosening the clutch shaft on the brake side and removing the belt I noticed the shaft has a little play in it. It wiggles around only on the left side of the case, but I wonder if its not supposed to since there is an engine type seal in the gear box where the shaft enters Or is that a concern because there's a bearing on the other side of the brake disc, and when bolted back together there is no wiggle?
Joe Olympique
Remove one axle at a time only !. Always have the other one bolted in place. This will save you the headache of fishing around for, and capturing, a floating sprocket if both axles are out of the sled at the same time. The bottom sprocket has a double wide splined center in order to accept both axles.
oly_man
That's sounds like great advice. Thank you.
Joe Olympique
You're welcome. I thought so too. I heard that advice from Warrior a few years ago, made perfect sense to me. I'm presently restoring a 71 Vamont so the whole thing is taken apart. Now that I see how it all goes together I get what he was saying.
rick
Joe Oly nailed it. I don't know if it will work in your situation or not, but I did drivers on my 68 alpine one shaft at a time and I left the tension on the chain and sprocket to hold the sprocket in position when reinstalling the drive shaft. It was almost too easy. I removed the rear idler and front bogie assembly and that aloud plenty of room too work. I removed both axle seals and then tapped off the outer bearing cup. A block of wood and bfh to pound the shaft out. Took about 2 1/2 hours to do both sides in the dead of winter (not recommended!) Rick
I have a set of drive axles that need the sprockets changed on them. DO I have to take the gearbox off/apart to let things free down there? Or would I get away with just loosening the chain, and dropping the tracks from the rear? Never dealt with one of these tanks before.
This one has the forward/reverse with a triple chain inside.
skidooguy1951
hi for your tank
drop the track and bogies
loosen your chain at the eccentric
remove the seals
remove the end cap bolts then the caps
the shaft should come out because it slips into the gear
good luck
Gaston
oly_man
Thank you. That's great to know.
I looked at it again last night and took the belt off. After loosening the clutch shaft on the brake side and removing the belt I noticed the shaft has a little play in it. It wiggles around only on the left side of the case, but I wonder if its not supposed to since there is an engine type seal in the gear box where the shaft enters Or is that a concern because there's a bearing on the other side of the brake disc, and when bolted back together there is no wiggle?
Joe Olympique
Remove one axle at a time only !. Always have the other one bolted in place. This will save you the headache of fishing around for, and capturing, a floating sprocket if both axles are out of the sled at the same time. The bottom sprocket has a double wide splined center in order to accept both axles.
oly_man
That's sounds like great advice. Thank you.
Joe Olympique
You're welcome. I thought so too. I heard that advice from Warrior a few years ago, made perfect sense to me. I'm presently restoring a 71 Vamont so the whole thing is taken apart. Now that I see how it all goes together I get what he was saying.
rick
Joe Oly nailed it. I don't know if it will work in your situation or not, but I did drivers on my 68 alpine one shaft at a time and I left the tension on the chain and sprocket to hold the sprocket in position when reinstalling the drive shaft. It was almost too easy. I removed the rear idler and front bogie assembly and that aloud plenty of room too work. I removed both axle seals and then tapped off the outer bearing cup. A block of wood and bfh to pound the shaft out. Took about 2 1/2 hours to do both sides in the dead of winter (not recommended!) Rick
