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Post by Doo640ER on Dec 29, 2021 15:45:55 GMT
Thanks Rock. I thought about adding this to the Tips and Tricks section.
LOL, that "wife" thing is just something I cut out from a local advertisement that was sent out from an automotive repair shop. One of those quarterly junk mail ads that fill up our mailboxes. Next time I get one in the mail, I'll drop it into an envelope for you if you want it.
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Post by olyman on Dec 29, 2021 16:05:40 GMT
Well done Mark!! Compressed air to the rescue... again!
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Post by Doo640ER on Jan 2, 2022 13:50:16 GMT
I spent a little bit of time in the shop yesterday. Still no chaincase leak, so that's a big relief. Therefore on to the next task of cleaning up the clutches. Took off the primary and cleaned both halves using a wire wheel on my angle grinder, then scuffed them up using a coarse scotchbrite pad. They came out pretty good, but this clutch is pretty worn. I'll try running it, but I may be soon searching for a Comet or Powerbloc replacement.
Today I plan to tackle the secondary sheaves. I'll use the tree felling wedge trick to hold them open and doo my best on them since I'm not in the mood to totally disassemble it. If it seems really sticky and not moving smoothly then I will tear it down.
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Post by Doo640ER on Jan 9, 2022 18:31:26 GMT
I got quite a bit of garage time in yesterday. Finally cleaned and rebuilt the HD-22B carb on the TNT with a EC Carbs full kit. I was trying to set it up for a 10 psi pop-off but after five tries of removing the stack, I settled for about 8.5 psi. I tried three different springs and I'm thinking that they may be good springs for an HR since they all wanted to pop-off at about 6 psi, assuming my pop off gage is reading OK. I finally got lazy and stretched one of them slightly to get the 8.5 reading. Good enough for a Saturday morning. I really am not sure if springs are different for an HR vs. HD? Well anyway I got it reinstalled and put some fresh ethanol free 89 octane, 40:1 mix into the old girl. The time had finally come to fire this baby up for the first time in about five years. We got about 4 inches of fluff snow a couple of days ago that had packed down to about 2 so I wanted to take the ole TNT for a spin around my property to see what she feel like. I got it fired up and pulling from the tank. No gas dribbling out of the carb is a plus!! Here she is after a little bit of tuning while on the stand. I'm not very good at tuning singles since most of my experience is with twins. But I think I'm close, and just need to get used to the amount of shake, rattle and roll of this lungers.
youtu.be/mow_Bw7iM98
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/mow_Bw7iM98" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
So, of course at that particular time, I'm feeling pretty good right? Floating on cloud 9. I was just about ready to pop the hood on and take it for a spin, and then.......
Cue up the dramatic music....
To be continued......
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Post by dando127 on Jan 10, 2022 0:13:31 GMT
Nice video.....sounds good running.....now I'm on pins and needles waiting to see whats going on....
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Post by Doo640ER on Jan 11, 2022 15:55:56 GMT
Well, here's the deal. What I failed to recognize with this fully clipped track is that the clips rub on one set of the slide suspension springs. The furthest ones in the rear. It's a huge letdown that I can't run this track as is. If I do, I would assume I'd be leaving a trail of sparks behind me. I'm pretty disappointed in myself for net even seeing this problem until the other day. Here you can see the damage to the clip. This was after spinning the track on the stand for just about 10-15 seconds. Talk about a real bummer!
Its hard to see due to the angle, but this is one of the springs it's hitting on the top where I can't get a good picture. Very tight in that area. I'm going to contact GB Distribution for their input, but would like any of yours also. I could always spend a bunch of time cutting the clips off, but that won't happen until summer. And I'm not sure how I would do it without making it look like a complete hack job. I'm also wondering if I switch the sled over to bogies (temporarily) would the bogies ride on the clips?
Just feeling a little defeated here, LOL. I think I have about 100 hrs into this sled, and still can't take it for a little spin.
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Post by olyman on Jan 11, 2022 17:58:40 GMT
I know all too well what that feeling is Mark! Dont give up yet. It would be really nice to use that track as it is. How much adjustment is left? What about just rigging up some wheels on those axles to keep the track riding a wee bit higher? I have to make something up like that for my 70 as well, and was planning on modifying a typical aluminum cross shaft from a newer doo. I've never measured, but the cross shaft steel housing might be 1" now which would accept a typical 6205 bearing. Worth a try. And bogies are easy to test and find out. You could likely look at any bogie sled you have on hand to see where the tire marks are. Probably going to be ok.
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Post by tompriebe on Jan 13, 2022 2:43:11 GMT
Why not try a cross shaft with small idlers just behind that obstacle? Two extra holes in the tunnel, and a lot less work.
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Post by Doo640ER on Jan 14, 2022 19:33:45 GMT
Olyman, there is no adjustment left, I've got the track good and tight assuming that's what you meant? Since it's a new track it needed to be pretty tight to get it to stop binding at the sprockets. GB Distributions recommends setting the track tighter than factory spec when first installed. It should stretch some I guess.
Vince and Tom, yep, I have certainly given some thought to adding an upper idler wheel setup. I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work. I even have a nice setup from an 80 or 81 Citation that could work perfectly with a little resizing/modification. To me, the worst part would be drilling two holes in the tunnel. I'm kind of a purist, but am slowly moving over to the side of having to do what makes sense to get something to work OK. When I was re-dooing my 67, I used as much NOS hardware I could locate, and the rest is stainless steel. I got over the fact that everything is not OEM.
Regardless of what I do, I probably won't get to it in the next couple of months. I say that now, but I could easily get distracted from something else I'm working on. After the amount of time I put into this sled, what's another 5 or 10 hours!
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Post by olyman on Jan 15, 2022 14:14:32 GMT
I can certainly appreciate the purists! I think for this occasion any other purist would want to know what you did so they could too 😉. If you put an extra axle or two across then just paint the bolt heads after installed with a tiny brush and they will "dissapear"!
What I meant was if you've adjusted the bolts in pretty much all the way then that's good. It will give you the ability to slack them back a little to make room for what extra idlers will consume. Idlers will also prevent any track slapping, and probably help it work better. Do it and enjoy the sled!
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Post by Doo640ER on Mar 20, 2022 12:52:13 GMT
Well, the season is over and I'm straightening-up the garage. The sled is back on the operating table, and I haven't decided what course of action to take to correct the problem. I did contact GB Distribution to explain the problem I was having. After a little bit of back-and-forth discussion, they agreed that they sold me the wrong track for this sled (I purchased the one they said I needed). I was provided the options of sending it back (at my cost to Canada) or keeping it and they would refund a portion of the original cost. I decided to keep it, since I'll get it to work one way or another. I'm satisfied how it all worked out and I'm not giving them negative feedback, accidents happen, I just want to share this info so someone else does not make the same mistake I did. Be sure to Doo your research! Does anyone know of any upper cross shafts that were used on a Ski Doo that may work for me in this situation? Something with fairly small wheels.
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Post by olyman on Mar 25, 2022 23:09:40 GMT
Hey Mark, I don't know of anything that came factory that would fit this chassis. But I did myself manage to modify a newer version to work on my 70. Took the wheels off and put it in a drill press, then held a hacksaw to the end and sloooooowly cut the end off on each end. Then just touched up on the bench grinder until I got it to fit snugly. Then added the wheels back on. As for the spacers that hold the wheels in place - just used a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel to reduce the size, until it fit tightly also. Not fast, but simple and effective. I don't know what it came from tbh, I know its not a citation as they were even wider. IF you want I can get some measurements.
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Post by olyman on Mar 31, 2022 23:35:07 GMT
This is what I did. The wheels are almost 4.5" in diameter
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Post by greenandgold on Apr 8, 2022 21:17:51 GMT
Pictured are three different upper idler shafts and wheels. One with the largest wheels (approx. 5 1/8 dia) used in 73/74 TNT F/A, next set with smaller wheels (4 ¼) from a 75 TNT F/A, and the last unit with only one wheel (also 4 ¼ ) closest to the outside of the shaft from a 77 TNT F/A. Believe the later one was used on a whole bunch of 76-79 models, but would be worthy of a P/N check. It has a slightly larger diameter cross shaft than the earlier unit pictured. Ski Doo added a turned shoulder to this shaft. Good luck
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Post by Doo640ER on May 4, 2022 18:30:05 GMT
Guys, thanks for the great info. I haven't done anything with this yet but will get back to it sometime this summer. I've got a few sleds where I could "borrow" an upper idler shaft bogie assy just so I could get an idea of how well it would work. I'm leaning in that direction since cutting off all of those clips does not sound like a good time.
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