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Post by joeolympique on Oct 23, 2021 4:00:14 GMT
Wow! What a beautiful job. Totally kick-ass. I know well how much time and effort it takes for just a single phase of a project. Suspensions aren't as glamorous as a beautifully painted cab or perfect seat but they are foundation essential. They have to be done correctly. You have, obviously, done that in spades. Very nice. Wish I'd stayed on top of this thread sooner, I have a bag full of those bushings you struggled to find. My bad.
Way to go! Keep up the good work. You are inspiring me at a time when my ambition was waning.
Best, Joe Oly
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Post by Doo640ER on Oct 24, 2021 13:33:06 GMT
Thanks guys, inspiring words! Should give me the gumption to keep the project moving forward. No worries about the bushings JoeOly, I finally got the suspension install finished yesterday. I have to say that kicked my butt! Another set of strong hands would have come in handy! Plus it was my first time so there was a learning curve to navigate. I figured out that a rachet strap pulling down on the track greatly helped in getting the first/front section bolted into place. JoeOly I bet you've messed around with this suspension a few times so probably know more tricks to the trade.
Today I plan to get the sled off of the operating table and play around with the motor. It needs a good detailing then I hope she fires up...
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Post by joeolympique on Oct 26, 2021 0:32:21 GMT
Alternatively, you can use the ratchet strap to compress the suspension.
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Post by Doo640ER on Oct 31, 2021 9:34:34 GMT
Guys, I'm looking for guidance and opinions regarding the new track I just installed. I just read somewhere that for every 1/4 inch increase in lug height, you will want to drop 1 tooth on the top gear. This was regarding a 2000 MXZ 500. Based on this advice, I should be dropping 2 teeth. What say you? Does it actually matter on this sled with it's expected performance?
EDIT: OK, so after falling back to sleep after posting this originally, I'm looking at the 70 parts manual and I see that this sled has the 10-tooth upper sprocket. That seems to be the least amount possible. The 335 uses the 11-tooth version. So it looks like I need to stick with the 10-toothThis sled will only be used for the random vintage ride, not racing so not looking for ultra-high performance, LOL. But would still like to hear opinions on this.
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Post by dando127 on Nov 1, 2021 2:16:48 GMT
By adding lug height, what is gained or lost? Is lower gearing required to spin the track?
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Post by olyman on Nov 1, 2021 3:02:33 GMT
I don't think it's a big deal unless you are wanting to win a race against something similar. Ride it!
There might be a bigger bottom sprocket you could use if you wanted to stay with a single chain. But I'd say ride it first, that will tell you a lot.
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Post by Doo640ER on Nov 13, 2021 13:11:37 GMT
Well, I haven't really touched this project for a few weeks, but last weekend I did manage to fill the chain case with some tranny fluid. Checked on it a couple days later and all looked good, no leaks . Fast forward a couple days later I came home from work and there it was! A disturbing puddle of red!! Its leaking! And its not a small leak. So, I need to dig in and see what I screwed up or at least confirm my suspicion. I know when I pushed the seals in, I inadvertently pushed the chain case side in a little too far in one spot, maybe 1/2 inch of the total circumference, so the ridge on the seal is likely not seated properly. I know I should have fixed it then! Darn. If its not this seal, then maybe I have a small leak in my chain case?
Is it possible to pressurize the chain case to try to get the seal to pop into place? Or at least get it to pop out completely? If I have to remove that suspension to get at that seal I might be hauled-off in a straightjacket by the guys in the white coats !!
Any advice would be great. I don't want to destroy the seal so if there is a good trick to just grabbing it to reposition it please chime in.
Mark
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Post by olyman on Nov 13, 2021 14:57:10 GMT
I've done that too and didn't have a good way of bringing it back without poking it again from the outside. You could try to pressurize it but think that would be hard to seal all the spots off. Worth a shot. If that fails you could try making a small sharp hook that could snag an edge of the seal so you can pull on it. Have to go slow. Failing all that just have to pull it apart and replace it.
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Post by joeolympique on Nov 14, 2021 3:27:13 GMT
I feel your pain brother, been down that road. I'm sure we all agree that getting those axle seals to seat properly is not easy. It's a matter of access, or lack thereof actually. It's just a tough awkward reach with no line of sight. If you've got any arthritis in your hands (like I doo) it can be a damn painful exercise. The "click" that you want to feel is not always obvious. I start pressing at the top of the seal, the first few pushes are the easiest. It gets tougher as more of the seal is in place. The final couple of pushes are the hardest so I want those on the bottom where the reach isn't quite so difficult and I have some sense of finesse.
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Post by bones on Nov 14, 2021 4:53:07 GMT
Lookin nice there Doo640ER, that track looks awesome on there !!!! I agree, don`t worry about the gear change on that unit, the low end grunt will take care of the extra lug I am sure we have all had the oil seal "Damm it" ha, ha.
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Post by Doo640ER on Nov 25, 2021 13:14:56 GMT
Quick update.... Haven't touched this sled since discovering the dreaded axle seal leak . I ran out of axle seals so I ordered 6 the other day and they are on the way. Once they get here I'll mess around with this. I'm still hoping I can find a way to get the current seal to seat better to stop the leak.
I got the 6 seals off Ebay. At the end of the day, total cost each delivered to my door was $US 4.47 each. That was the best deal I could find for the 03-106 seals. I've seen the exact same ones selling for $15.00 each which is insane highway robbery!
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Post by silverbullet on Nov 29, 2021 2:44:38 GMT
I hear your pain on the axle seals. Some have been installed and work perfect, yet others leak for no apparent rhyme or reason. They're more like weeps/seeps than flowing but you can't leave them on your garage floor that way. I've resigned myself to leaving an old cookie sheet under the leaking side. Given the little use they actually get, I simply add a little fluid before heading out. The idea of pulling the front axle again (my all time least favourite wrenching exercise) is enough to for me to opt for less than perfect. Good luck!
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Post by Doo640ER on Dec 3, 2021 13:10:12 GMT
Silverbullet, I think you may be onto something, LOL. If I can get my OCD under control, I just may leave this the way it is, at least for this season. I've got so many other little sled projects to tackle before I get ridable amounts of snow. I doo have a couple of tricks up my sleeve I'd like to try on this leaky seal before I totally give up on it. Eventually, sometime in the next couple of years, I'd like to tear this sled down entirely and give it a good once-over like I did for my 67, so if this seal leaks for the time being, then so be it.
I played hooky from work today, trying to burn-up my vacation days and I plan to doo a little tinkering on this old beast. This is my favorite time of the year
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Post by Doo640ER on Dec 28, 2021 17:12:34 GMT
Greetings all, I hope everyone had a great Christmas.
Well, yesterday I gathered-up the will and headed out to the garage to make an attempt at rectifying the leaky axle seal. I decided I was going to try the compressed air into the chain case trick that my silly mind thought just might work. I figured it was worth a try and what could it hurt, right? Desperate times sometimes call for desperate measures, LOL.
In order to get my hand in there around the axle seal, I had to remove the front suspension shaft, the one that supports the two front bogies. Of course I had to completely loosen the track to do this.
So I cleaned the exterior of the chain case to get all traces of grease and oil off. I then took my Gorilla tape and covered all three of the holes with it. I fired up the compressor and let it fill completely. I have no idea what the PSI was, but likely over 100. I then poked a small hole into the tape that was covering the smallest hole (the fill level hole) so that I could insert the narrow orifice tip of my air hose gun. I let her rip! It pretty much blew through the gorilla tape so I removed all of the tape from all of the holes but the small one. I reinstalled the rubber plugs back into the other two holes. I let it rip again! This time the top large rubber plug nearly blew off all the way. It was good to see that I was able to build pressure in there. So I reinstalled the big plug again and this time held it in place with my left hand while I shot the air in using the other.
Shazam!! That darn axle seal slid right into position!!! Nice and uniform all around the bearing cup now. Filled it back up with tranny fluid, took care of the track alignment and tension and as of an hour ago, no leak.
So, the next time you goof up when pressing in the axle seal, like I did, you may want to give this a try. Be sure to wear safety glasses and stay out of the line of fire. Oh yeah, a couple of cold adult beverages don't hurt either
Now I can get this off the operating table and focus on getting it running again. It's on to carb cleaning/inspecting.
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Post by Rockalicious on Dec 28, 2021 19:42:11 GMT
Good tips and nice sled... now where can I get one of those wife stickers?
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