Post by dando127 on Jan 22, 2020 15:58:52 GMT
1970TNT
THIS ONE IS FOR ALL THE BUBBLE NOSE GUYS. I WAS JUST GETTING A 69 OLY READY FOR THE WINTER AND THE HEAD LIGHT WOULD NOT POP UP SO USED SOME BLASTER AND LET IT SET FOR 3 DAYS . APPLIED BLASTER 3 DIFFERENT TIMES AND NOW IT WORKS ONCE IT WORKED I PUT SOME WD 40 ON THE HINGE. TO BAD ALL THE PARTS ON THE HING ARE STEEL. SO CHECK THOSE POP UP LIGHTS BEFORE THE WINTER HITS
Banoe
Can't wait for tomorrow
640guy
I found Justice Brothers JB80 works even better than Blaster (when applying heat to a stuck 640 jug)
Elan Dude
Yes, I know what you mean. I added dry grease alter freeing the pop-up mechanism on my 71 Oly and it is still working after 2 years. Dry grease is used for car door hinges.
1970TNT
MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE FAN SHIELD ON 2 CYLINDERS AND THE HEAD ON A SINGLE FOR GRASS/FOAM/NESTING MATERIAL/DROPPINGS THAT MY BEST BUDDIES THE MOUSE USES FOR NESTS. ON THE 2 CYLINDER MOTORS I HAVE USED A LEAF BLOWER AND HAD THE AIR GO IN ON THE HEAD AND THEREFORE PUSHED OUT THE FAN SHIELD TO CHECK FOR ANY MATERIAL IN THE FAN SHROUD. IF YOU SEE ANYTHING COMMING OUT OF THE HEAD WHEN YOU START THE MOTOR UP ON A SINGLE CYLINDER. THEN YOU ARE BEAT YA HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR AND THEN THE RECOIL AND FAN HOUSING YETI
1970TNT
BEFORE YA FIRE UP THAT RIP ROARING ROTAX MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE RUBBER CARB ADAPTER ON THOSE MIK'S TO MAKE SURE IT DIDN'T FORM CRACKS OVER THE SUMMER. I HATE TO HEAR ABOUT MOTOR SEIZEING BECAUSE OF A BAD CARB BOOT
Joe Olympique
"Tip of the Day"...might be a good new forum. We all learn little tricks as we work through our projects. For instance...I'm tearing down a 399 twin for the 71 Valmont. I'm using 5F5 paint stripper to remove the original black paint from the engine. It slopped over onto the contact surfaces between the case halves where the gasket sealer is. And guess what, the paint stripper removes that old gasket sealer WAY quicker and cleaner than off the shelf "gasket remover" ever has. So I won't be buying that stuff again, I'll just brush some paint stripper on there and wipe it off. Tip of the day.
1970TNT
The head light panel for a 69 OLY and 70 OLY is different, found that out today 69 is bigger
1970TNT
MAKE SURE THE THROTTLE CABLE DOES NOT STICK. I REMEMBER A GUY HAD A SLED FOR SALE ON EBAY AND I WAS WATCHING IT. WENT BACK A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER TO CHECK ON IT AND I WAS RELISTED WITH A PIC OF IT AFTER IT HIT A SHED. YA THE THROTTLE STUCK ON IT
1970TNT
GOT A PRIMER THAT DOES NOT WORK? BEFORE YA THROW IT OUT TAKE A PIECE OF BAILING WIRE AND PUT IT IN THE STRAIGHT OUTLET ON THE PRIMER . ANGLED ONE IS FOR SUCTION. MOVE THE WIRE AROUND A BIT AND TRY AGAIN. SO FAR I AM THREE FOR THREE ON GETTING TH PRIMER TO WORK
1970TNT
EASY WAY TO CHECK THE INTERNAL COIL ON THE OLD SINGLES. JUST USE AN OHM METER AND PUT THE POSTIVE IN THE SPARK PLUG CAP/IN THE SPARK PLUG WIRE AND THE PUT THE BLACK ON THE MOTOR. OHM'S SHOULD BE 10-12 OHMS
1970TNT
INTERNAL COILS BY THEMSELVES NEED TO HAVE AN OHMS READING OF 5200-5700 OHMS TO PERFORM CORRECTLY. YA DOO THIS BY PUTTING ONE LEAD ON THE SPARK PLUG WIRE SCREW AND THE OTHER LEAD ON THE WIRE COMMING OUT OF THE COIL OR THE PICK SHOES OF THE COIL
1970TNT
EXTERNAL COILS NEED TO HAVE 6200-6800 OHMS OF RESISTANCE
1970TNT
NEED TO TAKE OFF OLD DECALS OR NUMBERS ON A HOOD USE A HAIR DRYER OR HEAT GUN. HEAT THE DECAL/NUMBER UP A LITTLE THEN USE A PLASTIC RAZOR BLADE TO REMOVE THE DECAL. THE PLASTIC BLADE WILL NOT DIG INTO THE HOOD/PAINT LIKE A STEEL BLADE WILL
EricR
Always collect or acquire things that look similar...if all your machines are yellow with a black stripe, well, it's harder for others to notice one is different from another..
Scatter them! Put a few over at a buddy's house, a couple behind that garden shed..cammo netting, and stacking firewood in front of them is a good idea!
Sell a couple occasionally...that way, you can always tell someone (and I think, gentleman, we know whom I refer to..) that you don't hoard them and in fact just buy and sell!
Never, never line them all up in the yard!
Pay CASH for everything, burn all receipts!
Any other pointers?
1970TNT
BEEN BUSY SO THE TIPS HAVE NOT BEEN LISTED.
74-76 TNT BRAKE CABLES HOUSINGS ARE LIKE HEN'S TEETH. THEY ARE 62-64 INCHES LONG . WHAT TO DOO
SO I TOOK A LOOK AT A 77-78 TNT SET UP. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME BUT YA CAN USE A 77-78 BRAKE ASSEMBLEY ON A 74-76 SLED. THE CHAIN CASE HOLES ARE THE SAME YOU CAN RUN THE CABLE THE SAME WAY THEY DID IN 77-78.IN THE BACK OF THE CLUTCH NOT ON THE BELLY PAN. NOW I CAN STOP!!!
1970TNT
MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE FIT OF YOUR SPROCKETS IN THE AXLE FLANGES. I JUST RAN INTO SOME THAT DID NOT FIT THE FLANGES OF THE AXLE CORRECTLY. THEY ARE TOO NARROW/SMALL. IF THE SPROCKET DOESN'T FIT FLUSH TO THE FLANGE IT WILL NOT BE IN THE CORRECT ALGINMENT FOR THE AXLE AND TRACK
1970TNT
To line up your hood hinges put a metal rod or wooden dowel through both of them to see if they are in line with each other
1970TNT
GOT A SINGLE CYLINDER THAT IDLES ROUGH? CHECK YOUR IDLE JET NEEDLE FOR ANY PITTING OR IT MAYBE BENT SLIGHTLY. HAD THIS HAPPEN A FEW YEARS AGO THE MOTOR WENT FROM A ROUGH IDLE TO PURRING LIKE A KITTEN. USE ONLY SKI DOO/TILLOTSON NEEDLES
1970TNT
GOT A THROTTLE CABLE OR BRAKE CABLE THAT THE OUTSIDE PLASTIC COVER IS LOOKING ALITTLE RATY? JUST GET SOME HEAT SHRINK AND COVER THE WHOLE CABLE. LOOKS LIKE NEW
1970TNT
TO KEEP THE THROTTLE OR BRAKE CABLE FROM FRAYING ON THE END YOU CAN EITHER USE SUPER GLUE OR HEAT SHRINK MATERIAL ON THE END OF THE CABLE
1970TNT
JUST REBUILT YOUR CARB? MAKE SURE YA RETIGHTEN YOUR SCREW ON FILTER. THEY HAVE A HABIT OF LOOSEN UP AFTER YA PUT THEM ON. THE CORK/RUBBER HAS NOTENOUGH TIME TO BE COMPLETELY SEATED.
1970TNT
WANT TO KEEP SOME OF YOUR HANDLE BAR HAND GRIPS? USE A HEAT GUN TO HEAT UP THE HANDLE BARS AND THEN TWIST OFF THE GRIPS
1970TNT
CAN'T GET YOUR POP OFF PRESSURE RIGHT ON YOUR TILLY? TRY CHANGING YOUR INLET LEVER TO A NEW ONE. ADJUSTING THE INLET LEVER THE WRONG WAY WILL CHANGE YOUR PRESSURE.SEE PIC FOR THE CORRECT WAY
1970TNT
MAKE SURE YA CHECK YOUR FUEL LINE HOSE. JUST WAS GETTING A SLED READY FOR THE WINTER THAT HAD SAT FOR ABOUT 3-4 YEARS WITH "BLUE" FUEL LINE ON IT. WENT TO SPIN THE GAS FILTER ON THE CARB ALITTLE BIT AND THE FUEL LINE BROKE!!! STRANGE, MAYBE THE ETHANOL IN THE GAS HAS SOMETHING TO DOO WITH IT
Doo640ER
Quote from: 1970TNT on October 29, 2015, 11:44:48 PM
MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE FAN SHIELD ON 2 CYLINDERS AND THE HEAD ON A SINGLE FOR GRASS/FOAM/NESTING MATERIAL/DROPPINGS THAT MY BEST BUDDIES THE MOUSE USES FOR NESTS.
I hear you loud and clear Joe, this is what I found today when prepping my 72 Nordic that has been parked in storage for three years now. I want to tear those mices to pieces!!! Some thick welding wire to grab hold, compressed air and the shop vac took care of it.
I should also make mention that everyone should check their fan shroud fasteners....these things seem to have an afinity to shake them self loose. Use some locktite, or equivalent thread fastener to stop the rattling shrouds.
1970TNT
SEEING AS HOW WE ARE GETTING SOOOO MUCH SNOW. YA RIGHT
ANYWAY NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO HAVE A SECOND SET OF AXLES AND BOGGIES ON THE SHELF IN CASE YA HAVE PROBLEMS WHEN WE GET SOME SNOW
Joe Olympique
Good advice on checking fastners Doo640. I actually go over the entire sled prior to the first ride of the season. I've had a couple of surprises over the years. Carb flange, 70 335, came loose one night, bogged out and finally stalled, that was no big deal. Leaf spring/ski saddle bolt, 73 elan, fell out on the trail, at night. That resulted in a violent 180 yank on the ski, a dent in the side, and a very sudden stop, thought I'd hit a buried boulder, not fun. That was the one that got me in the habit of dooing a full check up.
1970TNT
SEEING AS HOW MOTHER NATURE HAS NOT BEEN TREATING US TO NICE THIS WINTER NOT TOO MANY SLEDS HAVE HIT THE SNOW. MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE GAS IF YOU ARE NOT USING NON ETHANOL GAS. CASE IN POINT,. I HAVE A ELAN THAT WE USED TO GRASS DRAGGING AND HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 3-4 YEARS AND NOT USED. I RAN SUNCO ULTRA IN IT. SO WE GOT THE BIG SNOW AND I WANTED TO TAKE IT FOR A RIDE. GOT IT OUT AND TRIED TO START IT. RAN GOOD ON SPRAY THEN I LOOKED TO SEE WHY IT WAS ONLY RUNNING ON SPRAY TOOK A LOOK AT HE FUEL LINE AND IT WAS BROKEN JUST BELOW THE FUEL FILTER ON ALL THE OLD SLEDS I HAVE REDONE I HAVE NEVER SEEN THAT. TOOK OFF THE HOOD AND THE SAME THING OCCURED ON THE STEEL FITTING ON THE TANK FUEL LINE WAS LIKE A ROCK AND WAS ONLY 4 YEARS OLD. THEN I TRIED TO GET THE MOTOR TO RUN OFF A PONY TANK SAME THING. RUNS ON SPRAY BUT NOT ON THE TANK. CARB OFF ALL LOOKED GOOD UNTIL I GOT TO THE DIAPHRAGM. IT WAS LIKE GLASS, TOUCHED IT WITH A SCREW DRIVER AND IT FELL INTO PIECES SO REBUILT THE CARB AND DECIDED TO CLEAN AND DRAIN THE FUEL OUT OF THE TANK. WHEN THE GAS CAME OUT IT WAS A LIME GREEN COLOR AND I USED SKI DOO OIL SO IT SHOULD BE BLUE. OF COURSE THE PICKUP AND RETURN LINE HAD FALLEN OFF THE STEEL FITTING.CLEANED UP THE TANK AND PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER. RUNS LIKE A TOP. ALIITLE WHILE LATER I LOOKED INTO THE BUCKET I DRAINED THE GAS INTO AND SAW THE ANTI SIPHON/CHECK VALVE IN THE BUCKET AND COULD BELIEVE WHAT HAD HAPPEN TO IT
SO I TALKED TO 2CYCLEMECH AND HE TOLD ME HE SEES THIS ALL THE TIME. WHAT HAPPENS IS THE ETHANOL PLUS THE GAS PLUS THE WATER COMBINE AND FORM A VERY ACIDIC SOLUTION. THIS GAS ALSO HAD STARTRON IN IT. SO IF YA GOT GAS IN THE TANK THAT HAS ETHANOL IN IT. IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO DRAIN IT BEFORE THIS HAPPENS TO YA
1970TNT
GOT A BROKEN WINDSHEILD BUT YA JUST DON'T WANT TO GET RID OF IT CUSTOMIZE THAT BAD BOY
HERE ARE THE TOOLS YA NEED
BAD WINDSHIELD
USE PAINTERS TAPE TO SHOW YA THE LINE/PLACE YA WANT TO CUT DOWN THE WINDSHIELS TO
NOW THE MAIN THING TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN YA CUT THE WINDSHIELD IS NOT REPEAT, NOT TO CLOSE THE TIN SNIPS ALL THE WAY WHEN CUTTING. ONLY CLOSE THE TIN SNIPS ABOUT 75-80% OF THE WAY. IF YOU CLOSE THE TIP SNIPS ALL THE WAY IT WILL CRACK THE WINDSHIELD
FINISHED CUT
1970TNT
HOW TO CHECK YOU COIL. TOOL NEEDED IS A MULTI METER FIRST I CHECK THE OHMS BETWEEN THE SPARK PLUG WIRE TERMINAL AND NUMBER 1 OR 15 ON THE COIL
MINIMUM READING IS 6200 OHMS UNDER THAT AND THE COIL IS NO GOOD
NEXT GO FROM THE GROUND OF THE COIL TO THE INPUT FROM THE STATOR OR 1 TO 15 ON THE COIL
READING SHOULD BE 2000 TO 2400 TO BE GOOD
EricR
Do you have a '67 or '68 (or maybe the earlier models, I have none to compare to) with a push in gas cap/dipstick that is loose?
Before you shell out the big bucks for a reproduction, take a bicycle innertube, cut a 2" section out (keeping it round so to speak) and slip over the gas cap where it pushes in to the steel filler neck.
You have a snug fit and snow/rain water won't get in any more!
Bomba-doo
Not sure if this is a tip, but an observation. I broke the springs on the front set of boogie wheels on my 69 olympic. When replacing the springs i happen to have a heavier/stronger set that i thought would do better taking the strain of that first hit in the suspension. It did, but made the steering almost useless. I had to move it back to the last postion and take that set and move up front. The steering was greatly improved. I understand the principle in weight transfer to ski's and such. I just didnt realize how much difference slightly stronger springs would make.
1970TNT
BEEN REBUILDING SOME MOTORS LATELY . WHEN YA PUT THE MUFFLER BACK ON USE SOME GRAY ANTISEIZE WHERE THE MUFLER SLIDES OVER THE EXHAUST PIPE AND ON THE MUFFLER CLAMP THREADS. IT SURE MAKES IT EASIER TO TAKE THEM APART AFTER THEY HAVE BEEEN SITTING FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS. THAT WAY YA WILL HAVE NO MORE TWIN MUFFLERS THAT LOOK LIKE YA HIT THEM WITH A 20 LB SLEDGE TO GET THEM OFF:o
EricR
I have had a plug wire that was corroded down inside the coil on a single cause a backfire, and intermittent hard starting too.
webmaster
Racers Keep Your Motor From Melting Down
Buy an EGT gauge(s) for each cylinder and know what the numbers mean.
If you have to keep leaning it out to be competitive, time to look elsewhere for power. Don't burn it down, needless, an EGT gauge in the long run will pay for itself if your serious about racing.
Me, when I raced, before EGT gauge--burned down twice.
After EGT gauge--Never!
Green and Gold
Hi Monty.
So, if I wanted to go with an EGT set up for a twin cylinder with no on board battery,(i.e. no source of a regulated 12VDC) what would you recommend that's readily available today? Would like to have set available for a pair of 74 F/A 400s and 340s undergoing mikuni conversion.
1970TNT
ANOTHER QUESTION HOW FAR DOWN THE EXHAUST DOO YA PUT THE TEMP SENDING UNIT?
7doos
My digatron EGT says 4" from piston skirt. It runs off the lighting circut, does not need DC volts
Bones
7doos, where did you get the 4" spec from ?? I had asked the question a few years back on a different forum, I got a lot of " well what ever is best for your engine" Next most common answer was 8" from piston skirt. Sure not saying 4" is not the correct answer.
webmaster
Quote from: Green and Gold on February 22, 2017, 10:53:08 PM
Hi Monty.
So, if I wanted to go with an EGT set up for a twin cylinder with no on board battery,(i.e. no source of a regulated 12VDC) what would you recommend that's readily available today? Would like to have set available for a pair of 74 F/A 400s and 340s undergoing mikuni conversion.
The simple (simple looks more retro then the newer digital style, those have all the bells and whistles though--very cool stuff) ones create the voltage (milli-volts) to move the needle via the temp probe.
Image via AAEN Performance
webmaster
Where is the temp probe(s) installed on a snowmobile two-stroke?
(Here's a great page on EGT monitoring in general.)
Go to bottom right hand side of page.
www.aaenperformance.com/snow_tachs.asp
THIS ONE IS FOR ALL THE BUBBLE NOSE GUYS. I WAS JUST GETTING A 69 OLY READY FOR THE WINTER AND THE HEAD LIGHT WOULD NOT POP UP SO USED SOME BLASTER AND LET IT SET FOR 3 DAYS . APPLIED BLASTER 3 DIFFERENT TIMES AND NOW IT WORKS ONCE IT WORKED I PUT SOME WD 40 ON THE HINGE. TO BAD ALL THE PARTS ON THE HING ARE STEEL. SO CHECK THOSE POP UP LIGHTS BEFORE THE WINTER HITS
Banoe
Can't wait for tomorrow
640guy
I found Justice Brothers JB80 works even better than Blaster (when applying heat to a stuck 640 jug)
Elan Dude
Yes, I know what you mean. I added dry grease alter freeing the pop-up mechanism on my 71 Oly and it is still working after 2 years. Dry grease is used for car door hinges.
1970TNT
MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE FAN SHIELD ON 2 CYLINDERS AND THE HEAD ON A SINGLE FOR GRASS/FOAM/NESTING MATERIAL/DROPPINGS THAT MY BEST BUDDIES THE MOUSE USES FOR NESTS. ON THE 2 CYLINDER MOTORS I HAVE USED A LEAF BLOWER AND HAD THE AIR GO IN ON THE HEAD AND THEREFORE PUSHED OUT THE FAN SHIELD TO CHECK FOR ANY MATERIAL IN THE FAN SHROUD. IF YOU SEE ANYTHING COMMING OUT OF THE HEAD WHEN YOU START THE MOTOR UP ON A SINGLE CYLINDER. THEN YOU ARE BEAT YA HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR AND THEN THE RECOIL AND FAN HOUSING YETI
1970TNT
BEFORE YA FIRE UP THAT RIP ROARING ROTAX MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE RUBBER CARB ADAPTER ON THOSE MIK'S TO MAKE SURE IT DIDN'T FORM CRACKS OVER THE SUMMER. I HATE TO HEAR ABOUT MOTOR SEIZEING BECAUSE OF A BAD CARB BOOT
Joe Olympique
"Tip of the Day"...might be a good new forum. We all learn little tricks as we work through our projects. For instance...I'm tearing down a 399 twin for the 71 Valmont. I'm using 5F5 paint stripper to remove the original black paint from the engine. It slopped over onto the contact surfaces between the case halves where the gasket sealer is. And guess what, the paint stripper removes that old gasket sealer WAY quicker and cleaner than off the shelf "gasket remover" ever has. So I won't be buying that stuff again, I'll just brush some paint stripper on there and wipe it off. Tip of the day.
1970TNT
The head light panel for a 69 OLY and 70 OLY is different, found that out today 69 is bigger
1970TNT
MAKE SURE THE THROTTLE CABLE DOES NOT STICK. I REMEMBER A GUY HAD A SLED FOR SALE ON EBAY AND I WAS WATCHING IT. WENT BACK A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER TO CHECK ON IT AND I WAS RELISTED WITH A PIC OF IT AFTER IT HIT A SHED. YA THE THROTTLE STUCK ON IT
1970TNT
GOT A PRIMER THAT DOES NOT WORK? BEFORE YA THROW IT OUT TAKE A PIECE OF BAILING WIRE AND PUT IT IN THE STRAIGHT OUTLET ON THE PRIMER . ANGLED ONE IS FOR SUCTION. MOVE THE WIRE AROUND A BIT AND TRY AGAIN. SO FAR I AM THREE FOR THREE ON GETTING TH PRIMER TO WORK
1970TNT
EASY WAY TO CHECK THE INTERNAL COIL ON THE OLD SINGLES. JUST USE AN OHM METER AND PUT THE POSTIVE IN THE SPARK PLUG CAP/IN THE SPARK PLUG WIRE AND THE PUT THE BLACK ON THE MOTOR. OHM'S SHOULD BE 10-12 OHMS
1970TNT
INTERNAL COILS BY THEMSELVES NEED TO HAVE AN OHMS READING OF 5200-5700 OHMS TO PERFORM CORRECTLY. YA DOO THIS BY PUTTING ONE LEAD ON THE SPARK PLUG WIRE SCREW AND THE OTHER LEAD ON THE WIRE COMMING OUT OF THE COIL OR THE PICK SHOES OF THE COIL
1970TNT
EXTERNAL COILS NEED TO HAVE 6200-6800 OHMS OF RESISTANCE
1970TNT
NEED TO TAKE OFF OLD DECALS OR NUMBERS ON A HOOD USE A HAIR DRYER OR HEAT GUN. HEAT THE DECAL/NUMBER UP A LITTLE THEN USE A PLASTIC RAZOR BLADE TO REMOVE THE DECAL. THE PLASTIC BLADE WILL NOT DIG INTO THE HOOD/PAINT LIKE A STEEL BLADE WILL
EricR
Always collect or acquire things that look similar...if all your machines are yellow with a black stripe, well, it's harder for others to notice one is different from another..
Scatter them! Put a few over at a buddy's house, a couple behind that garden shed..cammo netting, and stacking firewood in front of them is a good idea!
Sell a couple occasionally...that way, you can always tell someone (and I think, gentleman, we know whom I refer to..) that you don't hoard them and in fact just buy and sell!
Never, never line them all up in the yard!
Pay CASH for everything, burn all receipts!
Any other pointers?
1970TNT
BEEN BUSY SO THE TIPS HAVE NOT BEEN LISTED.
74-76 TNT BRAKE CABLES HOUSINGS ARE LIKE HEN'S TEETH. THEY ARE 62-64 INCHES LONG . WHAT TO DOO
SO I TOOK A LOOK AT A 77-78 TNT SET UP. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME BUT YA CAN USE A 77-78 BRAKE ASSEMBLEY ON A 74-76 SLED. THE CHAIN CASE HOLES ARE THE SAME YOU CAN RUN THE CABLE THE SAME WAY THEY DID IN 77-78.IN THE BACK OF THE CLUTCH NOT ON THE BELLY PAN. NOW I CAN STOP!!!
1970TNT
MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE FIT OF YOUR SPROCKETS IN THE AXLE FLANGES. I JUST RAN INTO SOME THAT DID NOT FIT THE FLANGES OF THE AXLE CORRECTLY. THEY ARE TOO NARROW/SMALL. IF THE SPROCKET DOESN'T FIT FLUSH TO THE FLANGE IT WILL NOT BE IN THE CORRECT ALGINMENT FOR THE AXLE AND TRACK
1970TNT
To line up your hood hinges put a metal rod or wooden dowel through both of them to see if they are in line with each other
1970TNT
GOT A SINGLE CYLINDER THAT IDLES ROUGH? CHECK YOUR IDLE JET NEEDLE FOR ANY PITTING OR IT MAYBE BENT SLIGHTLY. HAD THIS HAPPEN A FEW YEARS AGO THE MOTOR WENT FROM A ROUGH IDLE TO PURRING LIKE A KITTEN. USE ONLY SKI DOO/TILLOTSON NEEDLES
1970TNT
GOT A THROTTLE CABLE OR BRAKE CABLE THAT THE OUTSIDE PLASTIC COVER IS LOOKING ALITTLE RATY? JUST GET SOME HEAT SHRINK AND COVER THE WHOLE CABLE. LOOKS LIKE NEW
1970TNT
TO KEEP THE THROTTLE OR BRAKE CABLE FROM FRAYING ON THE END YOU CAN EITHER USE SUPER GLUE OR HEAT SHRINK MATERIAL ON THE END OF THE CABLE
1970TNT
JUST REBUILT YOUR CARB? MAKE SURE YA RETIGHTEN YOUR SCREW ON FILTER. THEY HAVE A HABIT OF LOOSEN UP AFTER YA PUT THEM ON. THE CORK/RUBBER HAS NOTENOUGH TIME TO BE COMPLETELY SEATED.
1970TNT
WANT TO KEEP SOME OF YOUR HANDLE BAR HAND GRIPS? USE A HEAT GUN TO HEAT UP THE HANDLE BARS AND THEN TWIST OFF THE GRIPS
1970TNT
CAN'T GET YOUR POP OFF PRESSURE RIGHT ON YOUR TILLY? TRY CHANGING YOUR INLET LEVER TO A NEW ONE. ADJUSTING THE INLET LEVER THE WRONG WAY WILL CHANGE YOUR PRESSURE.SEE PIC FOR THE CORRECT WAY
1970TNT
MAKE SURE YA CHECK YOUR FUEL LINE HOSE. JUST WAS GETTING A SLED READY FOR THE WINTER THAT HAD SAT FOR ABOUT 3-4 YEARS WITH "BLUE" FUEL LINE ON IT. WENT TO SPIN THE GAS FILTER ON THE CARB ALITTLE BIT AND THE FUEL LINE BROKE!!! STRANGE, MAYBE THE ETHANOL IN THE GAS HAS SOMETHING TO DOO WITH IT
Doo640ER
Quote from: 1970TNT on October 29, 2015, 11:44:48 PM
MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE FAN SHIELD ON 2 CYLINDERS AND THE HEAD ON A SINGLE FOR GRASS/FOAM/NESTING MATERIAL/DROPPINGS THAT MY BEST BUDDIES THE MOUSE USES FOR NESTS.
I hear you loud and clear Joe, this is what I found today when prepping my 72 Nordic that has been parked in storage for three years now. I want to tear those mices to pieces!!! Some thick welding wire to grab hold, compressed air and the shop vac took care of it.
I should also make mention that everyone should check their fan shroud fasteners....these things seem to have an afinity to shake them self loose. Use some locktite, or equivalent thread fastener to stop the rattling shrouds.
1970TNT
SEEING AS HOW WE ARE GETTING SOOOO MUCH SNOW. YA RIGHT
ANYWAY NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO HAVE A SECOND SET OF AXLES AND BOGGIES ON THE SHELF IN CASE YA HAVE PROBLEMS WHEN WE GET SOME SNOW
Joe Olympique
Good advice on checking fastners Doo640. I actually go over the entire sled prior to the first ride of the season. I've had a couple of surprises over the years. Carb flange, 70 335, came loose one night, bogged out and finally stalled, that was no big deal. Leaf spring/ski saddle bolt, 73 elan, fell out on the trail, at night. That resulted in a violent 180 yank on the ski, a dent in the side, and a very sudden stop, thought I'd hit a buried boulder, not fun. That was the one that got me in the habit of dooing a full check up.
1970TNT
SEEING AS HOW MOTHER NATURE HAS NOT BEEN TREATING US TO NICE THIS WINTER NOT TOO MANY SLEDS HAVE HIT THE SNOW. MAKE SURE YA CHECK THE GAS IF YOU ARE NOT USING NON ETHANOL GAS. CASE IN POINT,. I HAVE A ELAN THAT WE USED TO GRASS DRAGGING AND HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 3-4 YEARS AND NOT USED. I RAN SUNCO ULTRA IN IT. SO WE GOT THE BIG SNOW AND I WANTED TO TAKE IT FOR A RIDE. GOT IT OUT AND TRIED TO START IT. RAN GOOD ON SPRAY THEN I LOOKED TO SEE WHY IT WAS ONLY RUNNING ON SPRAY TOOK A LOOK AT HE FUEL LINE AND IT WAS BROKEN JUST BELOW THE FUEL FILTER ON ALL THE OLD SLEDS I HAVE REDONE I HAVE NEVER SEEN THAT. TOOK OFF THE HOOD AND THE SAME THING OCCURED ON THE STEEL FITTING ON THE TANK FUEL LINE WAS LIKE A ROCK AND WAS ONLY 4 YEARS OLD. THEN I TRIED TO GET THE MOTOR TO RUN OFF A PONY TANK SAME THING. RUNS ON SPRAY BUT NOT ON THE TANK. CARB OFF ALL LOOKED GOOD UNTIL I GOT TO THE DIAPHRAGM. IT WAS LIKE GLASS, TOUCHED IT WITH A SCREW DRIVER AND IT FELL INTO PIECES SO REBUILT THE CARB AND DECIDED TO CLEAN AND DRAIN THE FUEL OUT OF THE TANK. WHEN THE GAS CAME OUT IT WAS A LIME GREEN COLOR AND I USED SKI DOO OIL SO IT SHOULD BE BLUE. OF COURSE THE PICKUP AND RETURN LINE HAD FALLEN OFF THE STEEL FITTING.CLEANED UP THE TANK AND PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER. RUNS LIKE A TOP. ALIITLE WHILE LATER I LOOKED INTO THE BUCKET I DRAINED THE GAS INTO AND SAW THE ANTI SIPHON/CHECK VALVE IN THE BUCKET AND COULD BELIEVE WHAT HAD HAPPEN TO IT
SO I TALKED TO 2CYCLEMECH AND HE TOLD ME HE SEES THIS ALL THE TIME. WHAT HAPPENS IS THE ETHANOL PLUS THE GAS PLUS THE WATER COMBINE AND FORM A VERY ACIDIC SOLUTION. THIS GAS ALSO HAD STARTRON IN IT. SO IF YA GOT GAS IN THE TANK THAT HAS ETHANOL IN IT. IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO DRAIN IT BEFORE THIS HAPPENS TO YA
1970TNT
GOT A BROKEN WINDSHEILD BUT YA JUST DON'T WANT TO GET RID OF IT CUSTOMIZE THAT BAD BOY
HERE ARE THE TOOLS YA NEED
BAD WINDSHIELD
USE PAINTERS TAPE TO SHOW YA THE LINE/PLACE YA WANT TO CUT DOWN THE WINDSHIELS TO
NOW THE MAIN THING TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN YA CUT THE WINDSHIELD IS NOT REPEAT, NOT TO CLOSE THE TIN SNIPS ALL THE WAY WHEN CUTTING. ONLY CLOSE THE TIN SNIPS ABOUT 75-80% OF THE WAY. IF YOU CLOSE THE TIP SNIPS ALL THE WAY IT WILL CRACK THE WINDSHIELD
FINISHED CUT
1970TNT
HOW TO CHECK YOU COIL. TOOL NEEDED IS A MULTI METER FIRST I CHECK THE OHMS BETWEEN THE SPARK PLUG WIRE TERMINAL AND NUMBER 1 OR 15 ON THE COIL
MINIMUM READING IS 6200 OHMS UNDER THAT AND THE COIL IS NO GOOD
NEXT GO FROM THE GROUND OF THE COIL TO THE INPUT FROM THE STATOR OR 1 TO 15 ON THE COIL
READING SHOULD BE 2000 TO 2400 TO BE GOOD
EricR
Do you have a '67 or '68 (or maybe the earlier models, I have none to compare to) with a push in gas cap/dipstick that is loose?
Before you shell out the big bucks for a reproduction, take a bicycle innertube, cut a 2" section out (keeping it round so to speak) and slip over the gas cap where it pushes in to the steel filler neck.
You have a snug fit and snow/rain water won't get in any more!
Bomba-doo
Not sure if this is a tip, but an observation. I broke the springs on the front set of boogie wheels on my 69 olympic. When replacing the springs i happen to have a heavier/stronger set that i thought would do better taking the strain of that first hit in the suspension. It did, but made the steering almost useless. I had to move it back to the last postion and take that set and move up front. The steering was greatly improved. I understand the principle in weight transfer to ski's and such. I just didnt realize how much difference slightly stronger springs would make.
1970TNT
BEEN REBUILDING SOME MOTORS LATELY . WHEN YA PUT THE MUFFLER BACK ON USE SOME GRAY ANTISEIZE WHERE THE MUFLER SLIDES OVER THE EXHAUST PIPE AND ON THE MUFFLER CLAMP THREADS. IT SURE MAKES IT EASIER TO TAKE THEM APART AFTER THEY HAVE BEEEN SITTING FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS. THAT WAY YA WILL HAVE NO MORE TWIN MUFFLERS THAT LOOK LIKE YA HIT THEM WITH A 20 LB SLEDGE TO GET THEM OFF:o
EricR
I have had a plug wire that was corroded down inside the coil on a single cause a backfire, and intermittent hard starting too.
webmaster
Racers Keep Your Motor From Melting Down
Buy an EGT gauge(s) for each cylinder and know what the numbers mean.
If you have to keep leaning it out to be competitive, time to look elsewhere for power. Don't burn it down, needless, an EGT gauge in the long run will pay for itself if your serious about racing.
Me, when I raced, before EGT gauge--burned down twice.
After EGT gauge--Never!
Green and Gold
Hi Monty.
So, if I wanted to go with an EGT set up for a twin cylinder with no on board battery,(i.e. no source of a regulated 12VDC) what would you recommend that's readily available today? Would like to have set available for a pair of 74 F/A 400s and 340s undergoing mikuni conversion.
1970TNT
ANOTHER QUESTION HOW FAR DOWN THE EXHAUST DOO YA PUT THE TEMP SENDING UNIT?
7doos
My digatron EGT says 4" from piston skirt. It runs off the lighting circut, does not need DC volts
Bones
7doos, where did you get the 4" spec from ?? I had asked the question a few years back on a different forum, I got a lot of " well what ever is best for your engine" Next most common answer was 8" from piston skirt. Sure not saying 4" is not the correct answer.
webmaster
Quote from: Green and Gold on February 22, 2017, 10:53:08 PM
Hi Monty.
So, if I wanted to go with an EGT set up for a twin cylinder with no on board battery,(i.e. no source of a regulated 12VDC) what would you recommend that's readily available today? Would like to have set available for a pair of 74 F/A 400s and 340s undergoing mikuni conversion.
The simple (simple looks more retro then the newer digital style, those have all the bells and whistles though--very cool stuff) ones create the voltage (milli-volts) to move the needle via the temp probe.
Image via AAEN Performance
webmaster
Where is the temp probe(s) installed on a snowmobile two-stroke?
(Here's a great page on EGT monitoring in general.)
Go to bottom right hand side of page.
www.aaenperformance.com/snow_tachs.asp