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Post by olyman on Aug 13, 2021 17:12:40 GMT
Anyone ever have to replace them? I started taking the clutch off my 292 and found that the crank has more slop than I'd like. I can wiggle both sides up and down. After taking that bearing cap off the PTO side I can spin the inner race of the bearing with ease. I hope that the crank is still ok, but that doesn't seem good enough to close back up and run. Without splitting the case I cant see any numbers/letters on at least the PTO bearing... ?
Thanks in advance.
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Post by olyman on Aug 18, 2021 16:35:01 GMT
According to the parts list from 71 they have 402 part numbers, and the also have other numbers. I understand the PTO number that I would be willing to chance a 6306 C3 that has a groove ring. But a "Nu305" is very odd. Looks to be common to a 337 and a 340 as well. Bearing part numbers
You can also see the looseness that I'm talking about here; photos.app.goo.gl/G2FVZF6kAn6xyBSD9
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Post by bones on Aug 22, 2021 15:54:22 GMT
I think I have pictures but can`t find them. The NU305 and or NJ305 were used in some engine 69 to 74. They are a split roller bearing. Sure make it nice for assembling or dis-assembling the crank case. I will dig up the info on them. Bones
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Post by bones on Aug 23, 2021 1:12:31 GMT
The NJ-305 is a 62 mm x 25 mm x 17 mm roller bearing. They are available aftermarket but are kinda expensive devils, 60 bucks or so Cdn. As above they are a split roller bearing. You need a small/special puller to get the inner race off the crank shaft or a fellow decent with a cutting torch can/will get it off with no crank damage. Or you can substitute it with a 6305 C3 part number 09-258-03 which is 62 x 25 x 17 or you can also use 09-258-04 which is the same bearing with a grove in the back ( the grove has no purpose if in this app). The PTO bearing for the 292 / 340 of 71 and up is a6306 ( I believe it needs to be NRC3) It needs the snap ring and grove. Bones
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Post by olyman on Aug 23, 2021 11:12:40 GMT
Awesome. Thanks again Bones. Great info. Of course its expensive ... But hopefully will make it all tight again.
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Post by dando127 on Aug 23, 2021 20:11:39 GMT
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Post by olyman on Aug 23, 2021 21:40:25 GMT
Right on man thanks for that. Turns out I already ordered this aft from a local supplier and managed to get an FAG bearing for this. Also got an SKF for the pto side. Hope it works out.
Taking the old race off will be interesting lol.
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Post by bones on Aug 24, 2021 14:41:34 GMT
Olyman....Not sure if your up to speed on the bearings ( likely you are ) but you should make sure the bearing you ordered / use have the "C3" designation. C3 has more internal clearance than a C1 etc. You should have that clearance due to the heating/cooling cycles and the speed they turn at. Bones
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Post by olyman on Aug 24, 2021 15:55:43 GMT
Yes thanks Bones - great points. I know for sure the 6306 is an NRC3 which is open on either side, has the snap ring and C3 tolerance. The other one is just NJ-305. That one I need to check the tolerances... The NJ has this designation: NJ305-E-XL-TVP2 Link to info on bearingI think it might not have the same C3 rating... any idea?
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Post by olyman on Aug 24, 2021 16:35:27 GMT
It was the wrong one. Good call Bones. I ended up ordering:
NU305-ETVP2/C3
It doesn't split in two, which I am ok with even though it would be nicer to install.
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Post by dando127 on Aug 24, 2021 18:50:11 GMT
Olyman and Bones....if the link I put up is wrong let me know.......I will remove it.....don't want anyone buying the wrong bearing.....
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Post by bones on Aug 24, 2021 23:24:03 GMT
No, nothing wrong with your link dando127. Bearings can have a clearance designation number at the end. So example: a 6305 which indicates the size/type is what size is needed. But bearing are made ( likely not all) with different internal clearances. You can get a 6305C1, 6305C2, 6305C3, 6305C4, 6305C5, C1 a tightest clearance and C5 large clearance. To look in a Doo part manual and find it to say its a 6305 bearing part # 402-xxxx does not indicate it is a C3, but it will be. I am sure not up to speed on all engines but I know some 2 stroke engines from the 90s/2000s require some C4 clearance bearings. If you go to a bearing shop and ask for a 6305 bearing they will most likely hand you a 6305C1. You need to make sure it has C3 clearance for crank bearings. Some manufactures might use a different # system for the clearance value ?? Bones
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Post by dando127 on Aug 25, 2021 1:54:38 GMT
Thanks for the training Bones. If I ever get enough guts to try a full rebuild, I am sure that info will save me some pain !!!!!!
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Post by olyman on Oct 5, 2021 21:00:33 GMT
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Post by olyman on Nov 3, 2021 16:53:25 GMT
Update on this - I have replaced all the bearings with new (and seals). With respect to the loose fitting PTO side, I did some research and learned that I can use a special loctite (680) in combination with a clean & prime from loctite as well. Its pricey for the amount you need but man it sets up super fast. It was sticking quite hard the second I tried to put the bearing on when closing the case up. Its very firm in there now, closed up and ready to run. I even managed to replace the two rubber o-rings on the pto bearing cover. Just went into my local bearing supplier with the old rings and had them rummage through their stock to find something similar. Worked great. I didn't want to chance leaving the 50 year old OEM's on this thing.
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