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Post by powerwagon75 on Feb 15, 2021 1:32:50 GMT
Well, pretty much complete. Will probably be adding an additional LED lamp in the future.
Ski-doo brought the second stator lead out, but didn't use it on the pull starts (it was landed at the light switch in a dummy hole.) Brought both AC lines to the regulator, which unfortunately is a shunt regulator like many motorcycles are (pulls full AC amps regardless of DC load.) Battery box and small ballast battery added for stability. Floating ground DC system. Voltage very stable at all rpm's-- 13.7 VDC no load, 13.6 VDC with lights on. Converted 60W headlamp to 18.5W LED. Many suppliers state their LED bulbs will run on the AC--I recommend you don't do it. Many of them quit after a short time, or develop flickering issues. Added three new toggle switches: Battery On/Off, headlight, and an Aux switch, which may end up running an additional LED head light on the front. I wanted to do this project this way so that I would have a more stable DC volts. Lamp brightness does not change with rpm's now. Regulator has a switched B+ delay after shut-off of approximately 30 seconds (lamps off delay.)
Also installed a CHT gauge. Its on the left plug for now, but I have two probes and want to switch between cylinders, so got a direct connection base line on temps now, to see how much accuracy I loose with a switch in the circuit.
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Post by dando127 on Feb 15, 2021 3:15:37 GMT
wow......nice addition to a nice lookin classic
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Post by powerwagon75 on Feb 15, 2021 3:53:15 GMT
Thanks Dando. It was a fun project. I think that’ll be it for mods, other than an additional front light, if I can find an LED one that looks decent on it. Just going to keep taking it out having fun on it now. Going to try to make it to a local vintage show for the heck of it yet as well, hopefully.
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Post by olyman on Feb 15, 2021 13:53:12 GMT
Well done Powerwagon! Pretty cool when youcan think outside the box like that. How and why a floating ground? I put a round LED headlight in my 68 a few years ago and also added an old single wire regulator. It still flickers once in a while but is still working - I just thought it was + and - touching once in a while.. Maybe not. I might go back to the old halogen though as the LED doesn't broadcast up the center like the old school light did. But it does spread around well - I think its more of a flood light that a tractor would use.
I like the CHT gauge too. If the switch is as close as possible to the gauge it shouldn't change much. If it does you might need to find a dual gauge. You should put a westach style tac on the left so it matches that CHT gauge.
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Post by powerwagon75 on Feb 15, 2021 14:11:09 GMT
Hi Olyman,
Thanks. I went with floating the DC ground, because it wasn’t that much extra work to run a couple extra ground wires, and per regulator instructions I needed to do it that way, since I was too lazy to go in to the lighting coil and remove the AC center-tapped ground point. If we can get out of the -20’s it would be nice to get out and tool around after dark to see how that light does. Yeah, I don’t think its going to be any better than the 60W incandescent, but if it gives equal or slightly better for a lot less wattage, that was the goal. So I could add something additional too, if desired.
Do you have source for a Westech tach? That would look pretty cool in there!!
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Post by olyman on Feb 15, 2021 14:54:00 GMT
Oh I got ya. Makes sense. No it wont but you are right though, you will have quite a bit of extra wattage available for things like handle bar heaters.. you could even easily add a cigarette lighter for after those proper old school rides...
Just search evil bay for 'westach' and see what turns up. I've seen several on there over the years.
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elandude
New Member
71 Oly 335E, 74 Elan 250, 76 Oly 300, 77 Everest 340, 79 Blizzard 5500
Posts: 17
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Post by elandude on Feb 15, 2021 20:49:35 GMT
Great electrical work powerwagon. I will have to get creative like you on my 77 Everest 340. Wiring harness is a basket case. Good job.
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