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Post by dando127 on Oct 10, 2020 0:15:28 GMT
Hey Guys, I posted a few pics of my latest "gem" a few months back. I recently started digging a little deeper into it. Man, this thing does not give up its secrets easily!!! Here is what I know so far........ The body and hood are 1965........  The engine is 1970 TNT based on carb HD-22A, but the engine tag says 76 x 66 - 299cc  The slide suspension is 1970 or 1971......  The primary clutch  The only writing on it says "Eastern Industries Drummondville". Check it out......   The PTO oil seal is numbered 25-41.55-10 I googled it, it says it is 25mm inner diameter, which is very close to one inch.  Oh ya, and also its got some crazy ski mod going on. They welded a spot for a shock on the ski spreader!!!! Innovation at its finest.  So far, I have intermittent spark, and have not been able to get it to fire on spray. I just wanna hear it roar, and then I'll decide what to do with the engine (I think I want to put it in my Elan). I will restore the body at some point and make it pretty again...........one day. As always, any comments or thoughts are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks |
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Post by olyman on Oct 10, 2020 17:01:15 GMT
That thing is cool! It was clearly someone's "sleeper" 65. Might have even raced it back in the day. That slider suspension looks to be in good condition, as well as the rest of the sled. Likely a great candidate for a resto. The random spark might just be dirty points and/or loose wire shorting out the mag. Do you know what the compression is? The pto side makes it look like its the 3/4 shaft as it doesn't have that 3 bolt flange where the bearing/seal is. I think those were the bigger 7/8 shaft. If yours is the 3/4 then its either been put together with smaller engine's bottom end (like a 250 or 299) or its an actual 70 292 engine. That clutch is an aftermarket one and works pretty good too. Those are early powerbloc clutches, and though it says eastern industries its basically the exact same thing. Check This Post about those clutches. Your sled even has an early 70's track on it - much newer than the 65's had. I could tell because of the angles on the paddles. |
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Post by dando127 on Oct 10, 2020 19:44:14 GMT
After 3 pulls, with the engine cold, I've got 150lbs on the gauge.
I measured the shaft on the PTO side, it is 3/4". About 1" from the case it goes up to 1" diameter
I need to redo the wiring under the flywheel. I had a quick look 2 days ago. The coating on the small wire coming from the ignition coil crumbled and fell off. I wrapped it in tape and re soldered it to the condenser. I suspect the insulation on the other wires is bad too.
I cleaned the points while I was in there too. After that I got a couple backfires out of it on about 30 pulls. The spark doesn't seem strong.
I will clean up that wiring, make sure the timing is good, then try it again. If that doesn't work i'll start changing parts.
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Post by olyman on Oct 11, 2020 13:06:22 GMT
Nice. Sounds like a definitely good 70 292 engine there.
Ya start with the easy & obvious things and go from there. Also after the cleanup and wire fixing etc, check the plug you're trying to work with on a good running engine to see what the spark looks like. Quick way to find out if the plug is on it's way out with just a few pulls
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Post by dando127 on Oct 11, 2020 16:54:02 GMT
Olyman....or anyone else.....do you have a good source for spark plug wire???
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Post by olyman on Oct 11, 2020 17:35:11 GMT
You can use the kimpex stuff, but the plastic on it gets really stiff after a short while. For spark plug wire its just ok. You can get nice NGK sets, on the likes of amazon or something - but note that you should use a zero ohm cap instead of the 5k ohm ones they usually come with. Another option is this place. I was tempted to buy some myself ROTAX 7mm wire |
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Post by dando127 on Oct 11, 2020 23:13:45 GMT
Regarding the lack of spark, I found one issue. A lot of corrosion where the spark plug wire threads into the ignition coil. My pictures are blurry but have a look!!!!!!   You can see the brown corrosion inside the wire socket as well as on the wire. I'll clean up the coil and change the wire for sure. |
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Post by Doo640ER on Oct 18, 2020 14:50:29 GMT
Dando, that looks like a fun project. That 292 should give that sled some real get-up-and-go! I've always wondered what is the most effective method for cleaning the threaded stud your dealing with on the coil. I though about bead-blasting carefully?
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Post by dando127 on Oct 18, 2020 19:05:04 GMT
Maybe steel wool might be the trick. I tried emery cloth, but that doesn't get into the threads of the screw.
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Post by olyman on Oct 18, 2020 19:47:18 GMT
Thats not easy to get the rust out of. There's a good chance that if you pry around in there to clean it up it will just break off. Been there before. Doo what you can to clean it off. Even threading into another piece of non usable wire and spraying contact cleaner on it. If you get it decently cleaned up put a small blob of dielectric grease in there to prevent it from happening again.
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Post by dando127 on Oct 18, 2020 23:34:24 GMT
You can use the kimpex stuff, but the plastic on it gets really stiff after a short while. For spark plug wire its just ok. You can get nice NGK sets, on the likes of amazon or something - but note that you should use a zero ohm cap instead of the 5k ohm ones they usually come with. Another option is this place. I was tempted to buy some myself ROTAX 7mm wireI ordered some of the ROTAX 7mm wire, I will let you know how it goes. |
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Post by dando127 on Oct 22, 2020 11:55:13 GMT
I got the wire. The rubber is noticeably softer than the Kimpex stuff. Thanks for the tip Olyman !!!
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Post by dando127 on Dec 11, 2020 0:29:19 GMT
I've been diggjng a little deeper into this sled. I now have it totally stripped of parts, and have begun to remove the old paint that the previous owner had applied. Paint removal sucks, its messy and dusty, but necessary. I found a number stamped in the frame under the motor-----42XXX. I am pretty sure that makes the frame a 64. So now I've got a 64 frame with a 65 cab and a 70 engine. I need to address the fuel system, mainly the tank/bellypan.   I gotta doo something with the belly pan dents. The filler neck has been bronzed, and the copper tubes are all loose. My goal is to have a long lasting, good looking, reliable rider. With that in mind I am leaning toward replacing the metal on the belly pan, and cutting out the top for a plastic tank. I would have to adapt the steering as well. This will put my minimal fabrication skills and experience to the test. As usual, any advice or comments are appreciated. |
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Post by dando127 on Dec 11, 2020 14:32:04 GMT
Just got an email from the museum, the model is BR64, originally sold out of Cochrane, Ontario.
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Post by olyman on Dec 11, 2020 14:48:35 GMT
I fixed up the gas tank problem on my 66 but cutting the top off and scooping all the crud out, then hammering it out flat as possible with a large steel block that I "rounded". Also used wood to keep from making new dents. Bought a new Elan tank from Royal Distributing & fabbed up a bracket for the steering to still work and clear the tank. Also rigged up tubes & elbows etc to allow you to fill from the outside with the hood on. I thought I had a post on here for how I did it, but cant find it. I can dig up pics and post if you want.
No doubt at all that ANY paint removal just sucks. If you can swing it, get it blasted. You just have to deal with a naked chassis in very short order... b/c as crappy as the old paint was, it kept it from rusting!
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