Post by Admin on Jan 21, 2020 13:46:38 GMT
Green and Gold
Pretty amazing what sandpaper, elbow grease and a little polish will do to old, yellowed windshields. I’ve done this to full size snowmobile screens with good results. Not rocket science, but takes a full afternoon.
Started with 320 and worked up to 2000, polishing compound after that. Too many curves, so buffer stayed on the shelf. Not perfect, but acceptable
Joe Olympic
I use the very same approach on the poly cabs. Like you said, a lot of work and most of it by hand.
Green and Gold
R.E the bottle of naproxen. You gotta admit it’s pretty impressive that the label can be read thru the cleaned up windshield.
Back when the 73 TNT F/As were dominating Stock D class, one of my knees was blown out playing HS football. Got a new one 10 years ago; functional, but not nearly as good as OEM. So the bottle comes in handy time to time. Like after I’m done tossing around one of those aforementioned F/As in the workshop. Shoulder also appreciates it after too many tugs on the recoil
I’ve come to see why electric start and reverse are popular…..sigh……been looking at a few of those lately.
1970TNT
WHAT KIND OF POLISHING COMPOUND DID YOU USE? YETI
Green and Gold
I tried two sets of stuff. First was Meguiars Diamond Cut followed up with Meg Mirror Glaze
Second was 3m Perfect It II Rubbing compound (051131-05973), then 3m Foam Polish pad Glaze, 051131-05995.
I use both of these to polish out my catalyzed single stage paints. For paint, PDS says to use sandpaper to 1500/2000, then switch to the polishes. Both worked fine on the windshield. Some swirls left, could probably minimize if I switched to a leather sham for the glaze.
Tempting to use a machine and a foam pad, but I’ve launched a windshield in the past when doing so. Suggest you have another person around to hold the windshield if you use a machine.
Good luck
Pretty amazing what sandpaper, elbow grease and a little polish will do to old, yellowed windshields. I’ve done this to full size snowmobile screens with good results. Not rocket science, but takes a full afternoon.
Started with 320 and worked up to 2000, polishing compound after that. Too many curves, so buffer stayed on the shelf. Not perfect, but acceptable
Joe Olympic
I use the very same approach on the poly cabs. Like you said, a lot of work and most of it by hand.
Green and Gold
R.E the bottle of naproxen. You gotta admit it’s pretty impressive that the label can be read thru the cleaned up windshield.
Back when the 73 TNT F/As were dominating Stock D class, one of my knees was blown out playing HS football. Got a new one 10 years ago; functional, but not nearly as good as OEM. So the bottle comes in handy time to time. Like after I’m done tossing around one of those aforementioned F/As in the workshop. Shoulder also appreciates it after too many tugs on the recoil
I’ve come to see why electric start and reverse are popular…..sigh……been looking at a few of those lately.
1970TNT
WHAT KIND OF POLISHING COMPOUND DID YOU USE? YETI
Green and Gold
I tried two sets of stuff. First was Meguiars Diamond Cut followed up with Meg Mirror Glaze
Second was 3m Perfect It II Rubbing compound (051131-05973), then 3m Foam Polish pad Glaze, 051131-05995.
I use both of these to polish out my catalyzed single stage paints. For paint, PDS says to use sandpaper to 1500/2000, then switch to the polishes. Both worked fine on the windshield. Some swirls left, could probably minimize if I switched to a leather sham for the glaze.
Tempting to use a machine and a foam pad, but I’ve launched a windshield in the past when doing so. Suggest you have another person around to hold the windshield if you use a machine.
Good luck