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Post by dando127 on Mar 24, 2020 22:43:45 GMT
Hey Guys,
So after changing the external coil on my 320, I still have an intermittent no spark condition. So I ordered the flywheel puller and Bosch points and condenser.
I was out at camp today and I still have a small window to ride on the lake (tomorrow).
This would be my first time changing points and condenser. I plan on doing it tonight. Feel free to shoot me some tips or advice. Thanks
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Post by olyman on Mar 25, 2020 12:31:03 GMT
Changing the point should be fairly straight forward. Just don't lose that tiny screw/washer & nut. The new condensor liekly wont have a wire on it, so you'll have to solder one on, or use the old one. Put a little amount of oil/lube on wiper to keep things happy over time. Set the point gap to be ~16 thou, or close to it. I would take the time to time the engine, but if you think it was good then try it. Use Bone's method for reference if you go for it.
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Post by dando127 on Oct 20, 2020 1:41:32 GMT
So I finally got back to this motor after letting it sit for a few months. I wanted to get it off the bench before I dive too deep into anything else... When I got the flywheel off, I noticed that the advance lever was sticking a bit in the fully advanced position. So I took the screw out that holds in the lever. I noticed there were two little washers under the lever. It is the one labelled "31" in the picture.........  There is a lip inside the flywheel that the advance lever bumps up against in full advance mode. The lever was getting wedged on top of the lip. The parts manual only shows one washer, so I removed the extra one. The advance lever now returns to its original position without sticking. I soldered up the new condenser, and cleaned up the points. Now, I have spark when I spin the flywheel by hand. I still need to set the points gap and check the timing. This is my first time for this stuff so I'm a little slow. It's all making sense though. I want to have it running before the snow flies, which could be any time......... |
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Post by olyman on Oct 20, 2020 12:54:12 GMT
Sounds good so far. Definitely worth the effort to time it. Sounds like you will be ready long before snow flying 👍
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Post by dando127 on Oct 23, 2020 20:06:32 GMT
 Can I use the 1970 335 specs for a 1969 320?. Or should I use the edge gap method listed in the 1969 shop manual? |
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Post by dando127 on Oct 30, 2020 13:03:47 GMT
I have the timing set. It was a journey for sure. I tried the indirect method, but I could not get it set properly. I would run out of adjustment on the stator plate. So I thought maybe the part of the points that rides on the cam might be worn, so I decided to change the points. But I had the wrong type (the ones with the built in pivot pin), so I just changed out the moving part of the points.
I still could not get close to the spec, so I pulled the head off to try direct timing. Still I was short of the spec.
Turns out my laziness was the cause of my problem. When I was moving the stator plate, I would only tighten one nut and then test. When I started tightening all 3 nuts and then checking, I was finally within range of the spec.
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Post by olyman on Oct 31, 2020 13:38:36 GMT
Nice work. Now that 320 is going to be ready to tear it up this winter?
Certainly doesn't take much to be out of spec when setting up the timing. It can be a patience tester for sure.
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Post by dando127 on Nov 7, 2020 21:28:15 GMT
I need some ideas for the timing advance lever inside the flywheel. It keeps getting stuck in the full advance position. When I tighten the screw it doesn't move freely. If I add the extra washer it sits too high. I think I might add some material (JB weld??) inside the flywheel for the lever to bump into, and then put the extra washer back. Anyone?  I'll have to add some pics to explain..... |
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Post by olyman on Nov 7, 2020 23:38:00 GMT
I've had some P.I.T.A. arms before. I took the easy route and found another flywheel with a good working arm. But if you don't have one handy, something has to work. Ya add some pics..
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Post by 1970tnt on Nov 11, 2020 22:57:48 GMT
DID YOU SAND THE LEVER AND THE FLYWHHEEL AREA WHERE THE LEVER WORKS?
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Post by dando127 on Nov 11, 2020 23:41:38 GMT
Yes I cleaned it up nice today. I also used some valve seating compound between the lever and the screw. It is working now. I put it all back together, and it fired up easily. I think the electrical is good.
Now I think I have fuel issues. It idles perfectly, 1/4 throttle is good, but any more than that and it bogs to the point of stalling. Moving the high jet has no effect, from closed to 4 turns open it still wants to bog and stall. I did get it to open up a couple times, once by spraying gas in the carb, and 2 other times randomly over 20 minutes of running. I've got a few things to try before I sound the alarm bell.
Anyone have any suggestions to re attach the return line fitting on the carb? It popped out! I stuck it back in, but on those couple times the motor opened up, the fitting popped out.
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Post by olyman on Nov 12, 2020 23:35:42 GMT
Good job on the electrical. Did you ever take the welch plugs out of the carb? One of them has the nozzle check valve, and the other has predrilled holes to let gas past the throttle butterfly so you can idle. I wonder if your check valve is stuck closed. Check it by removing it and trying to blow through it. SHould only let air out but not in.
Try a little bit of red loctite on it and push it in tightly. Don't get it inside the fitting though, or you'll have a new problem lol.
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Post by dando127 on Nov 13, 2020 3:20:11 GMT
I had that carb totally apart last year. Check valve was good then.
The back end of the machine was pretty high in the air when I was running it, and the tank wasn't full. I think the tank filter might not have been fully submerged. I'll try it again and make sure the tank filter is fully submerged in fuel. I will also check the condition of that in tank filter as well. If that doesn't work i'll have to dig into that carb again.
Thanks for the tip on the red loctite. I'll give it a try.....
I can feel a chill in the air.....snow is coming soon.....
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Post by dando127 on Nov 22, 2020 0:37:50 GMT
I'm pretty sure I fixed my bogging issue by opening the low jet a little more. I added some gas to the tank as well. It's running so good right now, starts really easy.
The red loctite worked on that return fitting, thanks for the tip Olyman.
So now I'm just doing the stuff I never had time for. This motor came with an electric starter, so I might as well get it going. I am following the 70-71 shop manual and cleaning it up. Seems simple enough.
The original solenoid is still good. I cleaned everything up inside, but I lost a clip. It flew across the shed. It is like a snap ring without the holes for the pliers. I haven't been able to find one anywhere. I will check our local starter/electric shops on Monday.
Either way, I am ready for snow, bring it on!!!
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Post by dando127 on Nov 22, 2020 15:52:25 GMT
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I'll have to add some pics to explain.....
