|
|
Post by bones on Jan 1, 2023 1:48:36 GMT
414-8833-00 = 43.25" L x 1.35" W, 415-0606-00 = 43.5" L x 1.386" W, 415-6175-00 = 44" L x 1.359" W, 414-8287-00 = 43.25" L x 1.327" W.
As you have posted Hudson say 8833, Doo site also says that for 96 Skandic 503. That would be my choice. I am sure they will all work fine as there is diff lengths but also diff widths.
Bones
|
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Jan 2, 2023 15:48:50 GMT
Thanks Bones, Guess I'm still learning. I've never really dug into clutching so looking at these measurements is kinda new. Yesterday I adjusted the belt deflection since the belt that's on there was sitting about 1/8 inch BELOW the top of the secondary. I'd like to make myself the proper tool for adjusting the three allen screws and 10mm nuts. I've got the secondary closed-up all the way, and now the belt is flush with the top of the secondary sheeves. At least it's better but I still need a new belt. I see Leaders RPM on Ebay has the 415-0606-00 for US$55.00 so I might just go this route because I can't find any of the 414-8833 belts anywhere.
I'm done overthinking this,...LOL
Thanks again for your input,
|
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Jan 7, 2023 13:25:35 GMT
Hey Guys, Hope I can pick your brains again. So I've got that irritating exhaust gasket leak I need to deal with so I'm looking into sourcing the new exhaust gaskets so that I'm ready to go once I get the engine lifted up. The part number is 420831843 and the fiche shows I need two on each side. Can someone explain why two are necessary? According to the description, they are each 1.0 mm think. My thinking is that the engine shroud is sandwiched between two gaskets? Just how time consuming will this job be? 
|
|
|
|
Post by bones on Jan 9, 2023 4:32:19 GMT
Yes Doo640ER, there is a gasket on either side of the air shroud. Time to change......Well now days for me quite a while  . Likely about an hour ?? You need to pull the top shroud. Manifold and then the exhaust side shroud. Some what time consuming to ensure the shroud is all clean, no carbon build up. |
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Jan 16, 2023 16:57:19 GMT
Thanks again Bones. I haven't dug into this next phase of the project yet. The lack of any appreciable snow has not been very inspiring. I did attend a vintage sled show yesterday that helped scratch the itch quite a bit. I may post some pics in the General Discussion forum.
I need to source the gaskets before I dig into it. I see them on a few sites, but they are like US $9.00 each? I've reached out to Goose to see if he has anything. Hard to believe I will need to spend $50.00 to fix this. Oh well,....tis what it is.
|
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on May 2, 2023 13:18:21 GMT
Well, it was about time I did some wrenching on this old girl. A couple days ago a got the engine removed again. Maybe I could have done this job by leaving the engine in the chassis but what the heck, it only took about and hour and a half to remove, working at a slow pace and enjoying my time. Things went smooth since I already had taken this all apart a few months ago. I got the fan shroud removed and wow, the gaskets were messed up. No wonder it was leaking!
I took a file to the flange faces to get them a little trued up. It needs a little more I think.
I'm not sure if I should put a light coating of UHT Sealant on the gasket surfaces before installation? I've read some folks doo, and some don't. It certainly doesn't help that there are only two bolts per side!! Bad design!!
|
|
|
|
Post by olyman on May 21, 2023 12:56:37 GMT
Nice work Mark. Nothing wrong with adding a thin layer of copper exhaust sealant. It helps guarantee a seal if things aren't perfectly true. It makes it a little harder to take apart, but if you aren't planning to then its the way to go IMO.
|
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Jun 14, 2023 13:11:07 GMT
So I've finally gotten back to this. I'm never satisfied to leave anything alone and it was bugging me that there are only two manifold bolts on each side, so I decided to add one more on each side. Why the heck not since the head is already drilled and tapped for additional bolts? I can't see any harm in doing this and I want to give the new set of gaskets the best shot at lasting a long time. I was able to pick up 10 NOS OEM manifold bolts for US$9.99 with free shipping from Ebay. A nice coat of 2000F paint on the Y-pipe and there you have it. I used the Permatex Ultra High Temp gasket sealer also. Sorry, it got a little messy, LOL.
As of today the motor is back in, carbs are installed. Oil injection has been bled and set properly. Clutch is back on but still needs torqued. Anyone know the torgue spec for the primary bolt? Still need to install the rest of the exhaust, battery and Airbox. My airbox to carb boots are not great so if anyone has some they would sell, please let me know. Hey Bones! Are you hoarding any??? LOL. I really don't want to throw those UNI pod filters on there if I don't have to. To me that's just asking for the main carb boots to crack. Hope to finish this up in a few days and fire it back up.
  
|
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Jun 14, 2023 13:13:42 GMT
Nice work Mark. Nothing wrong with adding a thin layer of copper exhaust sealant. It helps guarantee a seal if things aren't perfectly true. It makes it a little harder to take apart, but if you aren't planning to then its the way to go IMO. |
|
|
|
Post by bones on Jul 3, 2023 17:12:38 GMT
Doo640ER, nice work. If you get snow next winter we will not likely see you on this board as you will be out riding this rig for many hours Carb to air box boots....Sorry I am not hording any. I have taken a exhaust boot from the tunnel mount engine sleds ie ~ 70 to 74 plus Elans. Cut the outer ring of it. Stuffed the base section into S chassis air box, they fit in there quit well. Then used a hose clamp to secure the cut off end to carb, sure not factory but works well. Or.....A couple years back we had a discussion on zootalk about the S chassis FC carb to air box boots. One fellow had bought some from Ski doo for I think about a 2005 sled with the 550 FC engine, he had to trim a very small amount but they worked about perfect. He posted the part # which I recorded at the time, but I have since lost that part number  . I have done a couple of searches for the thread but not found it. I am sure it is there some where. |
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Jul 25, 2023 15:17:40 GMT
Hey Bones, I bet this is the thread you were telling me about?
www.dootalk.com/threads/carb-to-air-box-boots.1384729/
Sure looks like it. I just might have to give this a try myself and see if the alternate boot is still available. Part # 508000203.
I repaired the original boots that were torn, I used super glue,...but I know that fix won't last long, haha.
|
|
|
|
Post by Doo640ER on Aug 16, 2023 12:24:01 GMT
Well,
Here she in in all her glory, LOL. I took it for a three-lap test drive the other day. She's running and sounding great! Quick sled actually! I had no one to shoot the video of me riding it, so right now all you get is this boring video of it idling and killing mosquitos! Bring on Winter!!
youtu.be/WP971QaPyDQ
|
|
|
|
Post by olyman on Aug 16, 2023 12:39:41 GMT
She sounds really good Mark! Good job getting to the finish line and dooing your part to tame the mosquito population!
Amen - bring on winter!
|
|
. Likely about an hour ?? You need to pull the top shroud. Manifold and then the exhaust side shroud. Some what time consuming to ensure the shroud is all clean, no carbon build up. 
.